Page 24 - Fiji Traveller 2023 Issue 5

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Photo: Samantha Magick Levuka

Levuka makes a memorable first impression. Arriving by sea, of a unique landscape.”
colourful storefronts and historic buildings are framed by the Fijian writer Mary Rokonadravu, who spent 12 years schooling
forested slopes of an extinct volcano rising sharply behind the in Levuka, has described it as “a crash course in the history of
township. Fiji, a time capsule, a microcosm of almost 200 years of contact
Levuka, as Fiji’s first capital (1874-1882), is a town of many history.
firsts. It is a significant cultural world heritage site under the “As a writer, my stories and style of telling come from this
United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation beach town that is a tapestry of human migration, dispossession,
(UNESCO), and while the benefits of this designation are yet to loss, resilience, and hope.
come to fruition, for a long weekend, it provides visitors with a “To visit Levuka is to encounter art and history.”
chance to take it slow and soak up some history alongside some Levuka was declared a sister town to Hawaii’s Lahaina, which
fresh sea air. was so tragically razed by fire recently. Both towns were ports
While a Heritage Bill to provide for the domestic application of for whaling ships on their way to New Zealand in the 1800s. The
the World Heritage Convention is still to make its way through devastation of that town is a stark reminder of the transience of
parliament—with calls from townspeople for more consultation— history and the vulnerability of our heritage.
UNESCO recognises Levuka as: “A rare example of a late Here are some tips for a weekend in the first capital.
colonial port town that was influenced in its development by
the indigenous community which continued to outnumber the Where to stay
European settlers. Levuka Homestay: Hosts John and Marilyn offer simply
“Thus the town, an outstanding example of late 19th century decorated but lovely rooms in a lush garden. Marilyn’s breakfasts
Pacific port settlements, reflects the integration of local building are legendary for their generosity and variety. Don’t plan for a
traditions by a supreme naval power, leading to the emergence heavy lunch, this multi-course feast and its home-made elements

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