Page 29 - Fiji Traveller 2023 Issue 5
P. 29

VAVAVI'S SOUL FOOD






       By Kite Pareti

         It is a bright Saturday morning, and I am heading out of Nadi to
       learn how to make some delicious local food.
         Lovo is a traditional cooking method, practised for centuries in
       Fiji and across the Pacific, where a range of food is thoroughly
       cooked underground.
         On arrival at The Lookout, a bar and grill venue located on a
       hilltop in Vuda with breathtaking views of Nadi Bay, I was greeted
       by a lovely couple, Anna and Samu, and Samu’s two younger
       siblings.  Anna and Samu are the founders of Vavavi, which
       means 'baking'. It is a newly established family venture that aims
       to deliver an unforgettable Fijian lovo-making experience for
       curious adventurers.
         Joining us for the day was the beautiful Vaalele family, who
       were visiting Fiji for the first time from Brisbane, Australia.
         The Vavavi team warmly welcomed us with refreshing green
       coconut  juice,  a  great  energy  booster  when  you  are  out  and
       about under the hot sun.
         Then the fun began.  Anna and Samu showed us how to
       prepare the foundation of the earth oven by placing rocks and
       wood in the pit they had dug. It takes about 90 minutes for it to be
       hot and ready, said Samu.
         While the pit was warming up, we moved to a nearby table. It
       was decked out with jars of freshly squeezed coconut milk, as
       well as cutting boards and cutlery, so we could prepare the meat
       and veggies that had been sourced earlier from a nearby market
       and their generous neighbour’s backyard.
         “We  are  going  to  prepare  a  number  of  dishes  today  —
       palusami, chicken, fish, and some root crops,” Anna explained.
         “Some steak?” Denis Vaalele asked jokingly.  “No steak today,”
       Anna chuckled, “but you can have corned beef in palusami.”
         Palusami, made from taro leaves and coconut milk, is a must-
       have when making lovo. Using big taro leaves, “you can add
       different ingredients such as tuna or corned beef, coriander,
       tomatoes, onions, garlic and of course, salt and some coconut
       milk. We’re basically making a little Fijian pizza,” said Anna.
         After wrapping our palusami, we were given a wooden stool to   which were first time experiences for Denis, who is of Samoan
       sit on, a knife, and a basin to learn how to prepare some of Fiji’s   ancestry, but is yet to visit Samoa.
       staple foods — cassava, taro, coconuts and falawa.     “I grew up in Sydney and Brisbane all my life,” he said. Denis
         “In Fiji, we have different types of cassava. We have the Delei,   works for an organisation called Strive, where 90% of youth
       the Piqi, the yellow one, the one that grows up to six months,   workers are Pacific Islanders and they help troubled kids. He
       three months,” Samu explained.                       explained while taking a break from scraping coconuts: “Most
         “When we returned from school as kids, we would have to peel   kids there are Aboriginal, a couple of Kiwis but I haven’t seen an
       our cassava before we go and play. We have to peel it, wash it,   Islander kid yet. They struggle with good role models.”
       cook it, and wait for it to cook. We put it on the fire and played for   Asked if he’ll teach the kids how to make Fijian lovo, he said
       a little bit. Sometimes, when we return home after playing, it will   cheerfully: “Yeah. We have cultural days. Our Aboriginal kids
       be burnt… deep frying there in the pot,” Samu said.   have a culture similar to this too. They cook underground using
         “What happens if it’s burnt?” Denis asked.         rocks.”
         Samu laughed: “You’ll have to go into the forest to look for   His wife, Shania-Rei Vaalele, a Maori woman from Rotorua,
       cassava or get it from your neighbour.”              shared how she grew up having hangi, a food-making tradition
         We peeled our root crops and scraped a few coconuts, all of   similar to lovo. “We do it for 3-4 hours. The food is different though


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