Page 18 - Fiji Traveller Issue 3

about the lack of control over the upkeep of
important historical buildings—this one has
been painted bright red—made me ponder
where the other landmarks are and whether
they have been changed as well.
In this part of town, something else Sipeli
said made me stop in my tracks.
Apparently, the Harbour Front Building
used to be the home of Burns Phillip in the
1930s. Sipeli related that they made their
money through ‘blackbirding’, enslaving
people from other parts of the Pacific to work
on Fiji plantations.
“They were stealing some people from
Vanuatu and the Solomon Islands, and they
legitimised their business in the late 1800s
when they began to buy fleets of boats and
became shipping merchants."
Another story that pulled at my heart was
Sipeli’s retelling of the history of Suva’s
original indigenous inhabitants, and their
move from the heart of the city to Suvavou
village.
"Thurston Garden was named after the
governor general; he was a botanist; they
named the place after him and made that a
glorious garden, but the true story is that that
used to be the home of the indigenous people
of Suva, who have occupied this space for
3000 years and were asked to move."
There were many other noteworthy things
Sipeli shared about my beautiful Suva. Just
two more examples: Nabukalou Creek used
to be so clean and clear that in 1875, when
the big boats docked, passengers used to
travel through it by canoe, drink the fresh
water, catch prawns, and cook them over the
stoves. I remember this place fondly, as growing up; my father fire by the creek.
used to bring me here after a full day of school shopping to eat. Cumming Street, which was named after Scottish travel
He couldn’t afford the chicken and chips, instead we had ‘sui’ and writer Constance Frederica Gordon-Cumming, (stayed in a
‘suruwa’ from the market; it was affordable and delicious. boarding house on the street for four years in the late 1800s
Suva market has changed over the years. While I learned while she wrote two books) was one of Suva’s original tourism
during the tour that some vendors have been there for over 30 destinations. In the 1940s, when visiting infantrymen were
years, their stalls passed down from generation to generation, looking for souvenirs, the Gujurati businessmen who had stores
the second floor of the market caught me off guard. I haven’t along Cumming Street produced small quantities of Fiji t-shirts
been here for over 10 years, and what I used to remember as they could take home.
a place where grog sellers flocked, is now populated with spice Sipeli’s history tour stirred a whole range of emotions in me.
sellers too. Come prepared to be challenged and entertained, and to do
I was excited because I enjoy cooking, but I sometimes find a lot of walking. Carry your water bottle, sunglasses, hat, and
it difficult to get spices at affordable prices. This place is every a shopping bag, just in case you see a tempting purchase en-
cook's heaven. We walked through, Sipeli stopping to chat with route. The tour was engaging and insightful, and by the end, you
vendors, which gave me an opportunity to look through all the will view Suva and its people from a completely new perspective,
spices on offer and make a mental shopping list. one that will make you appreciate every detail that makes the
As we exited the market, Sipeli pointed out a building opposite capital different from the rest of Fiji’s cities and towns.
the modern Tappoos complex, saying, “This was built in 1901;
there was a public bar at the bottom and Hotel Metropole on top." Guided Walking Tours, Suva
I didn’t realise this was a landmark, and Sipeli’s comment guidedwalksfiji@gmail.com

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