Page 45 - Fiji Traveller Issue 10

After a few days of acclimatising and soaking in the slow Getting There:
rhythms of McLeod Ganj, the day I had been waiting for finally To reach McLeod Ganj, most travellers opt for a domestic flight
arrived — an audience with His Holiness the Dalai Lama. into Dharamsala (Kangra Airport), which is around 30 km away.
Security was extremely tight. We weren’t allowed to bring any From there, you can take a taxi or a local bus to the town.
belongings — no phones, no cameras, not even a hairpin. In a However, if you’re looking for a more adventurous route (as
way, it felt perfect. Without technological distractions, I was able I did), you can take a train from Delhi to Kalka, followed by the
to be fully present. famous Shimla toy train. This journey, though longer, offers a
As we were escorted into the courtyard — His Holiness prefers beautiful view of the changing landscapes as you move into the
to receive visitors outdoors on sunny days — an overwhelming foothills of the Himalayas.
sense of excitement engulfed me. He arrived in his electric cart,
radiating kindness and serenity, a rare blend of profound wisdom Best Time to Visit:
and simplicity. The best time to visit McLeod Ganj is between March and
When I approached him, I was introduced. He looked directly June when the weather is cool and pleasant. However, if
into my eyes. It felt as if he were seeing beyond the surface — you’re looking for snow, December to February is ideal, as the
seeing that I was in need of guidance. Then, smiling warmly, Dhauladhar range is blanketed in white.
he reached out and gently touched my cheeks with his right
hand. His touch was soft, warm, and deeply familiar — like Quick Tips
the comforting embrace of someone I’d known forever, though • Audience with the Dalai Lama:
we had just met. I couldn’t hold my tears of joy, as it touched If you wish to attend one of His Holiness’ teachings or public
something eternal within me audiences, it’s advisable to check his official schedule on the
In that moment, time stood still. The chaos of the world faded Dalai Lama’s website. Registration is often required, and there
away. I was left with a profound realisation: true peace begins is no guarantee of an audience, so it’s essential to plan ahead.
within. Public teachings are generally free, but you may need to arrive
After the audience, I wandered slowly through the peaceful early to secure a spot.
grounds of the Tsuglagkhang Complex, home to His Holiness
and the spiritual heart of the Tibetan exile community. Prayer • Respectful attire:
wheels spun gently in the mountain wind. Pilgrims who made long While in McLeod Ganj, dress modestly, especially when
journeys, prostrating themselves with devotion, were whispering visiting temples and monasteries. Loose, comfortable clothing
prayers as they made their rounds. Everywhere, there was a is ideal for trekking, but always cover your shoulders and knees
deep, abiding sense of resilience, hope, and compassion. when entering sacred spaces.
As my journey drew to an end, I found it difficult to leave
McLeod Ganj. The town had not only offered me majestic • Walking around town:
mountains and serene temples — it had given me a glimpse into The town is small, and most of the main attractions can be
a deeper way of living, one rooted in kindness, forgiveness, and reached by foot. Wear comfortable shoes for wandering the
presence. narrow lanes, as some paths, especially up to Triund, can be
Travel, at its best, does not just show us new places — it steep.
transforms us from within.
As I left the foothills of the Himalayas and made my way back • Local cuisine:
toward the crowded cities and bustling airports of the world, I Don’t miss out on Tibetan dishes like momos (dumplings) and
couldn’t help but reflect on the challenges ahead for McLeod thukpa (noodle soup). Many cafés also offer Western options,
Ganj in the world of mass tourism, Instagram obsessions and but sampling the local flavours is part of the experience.
pollution from car fumes, traffic, and a haze of selfies.
The modern world intruded and yet, I carried a silent promise • Cash:
in my heart: to hold onto the peace I found in McLeod Ganj, and While ATMs are available, it’s always a good idea to carry
to let that blessing guide my steps, wherever the journey may cash as some smaller shops and guesthouses may not accept
take me next. cards.

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