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By Ema Ganivatu Another challenge was the location. Situated off Levuka’s
main street, Alice initially worried guests would shy away from
Nestled in the heart of Levuka, Fiji’s only UNESCO World the uphill walk. Approaching by foot, visitors must walk up
Heritage site, Alice Tamani’s Bed and Breakfast, ‘The Lookout’, Levuka’s famous 99 steps. However, she found that the charm
has become more than just a business – it is a chance to of the house and the personal touch of her hospitality turned
preserve a cherished piece of Fiji’s colonial history. the location into a selling point. “It became a destination. People
“This house is so much more than just a place to stay,” she enjoy the journey up here and the experience of staying in such
tells Fiji Traveller. “It was given to the town by its previous owner, a beautiful, historic home,” she says. Another reward is the
Duncan, who loved Levuka so much that he bequeathed it to the expansive views once you get to the home.
town’s historical society when he passed away. And under the “Living on an island means that everything is more expensive,”
terms of our lease, we’ve committed to retaining the history of Tamani adds. “From furniture to appliances to foodstuffs, freight
this place.” costs can be high, and there’s a limited variety. But we made
The house, which was built in 1915, was once home to the a conscious decision to support local businesses whenever
Sword family, whose legacy is still felt in the town today. “We’ve possible. It’s a bit more expensive, but it’s also rewarding to keep
kept so much of the history alive,” Tamani continues. “From money within the local economy.”
Duncan’s personal photographs of his travels in the South While Levuka’s rich history draws visitors, Alice points out that
Pacific to artifacts belonging to the Sword family, including their there’s much more to the town and its surroundings than meets
mementos and belongings, it’s truly a time capsule of the past.” the eye. “Many people think Levuka is just a ghost town full of old
“People come for the history, for the view, for the peaceful buildings,” Tamani says. “But for those who really explore, there
atmosphere, but it’s the food that keeps them coming back,” is so much more. The natural beauty here is breathtaking. There
Tamani says with a smile. “I love cooking with Fijian ingredients, are hikes, waterfalls, snorkelling, and local villages to explore.
things like cassava flour, breadfruit flour, and natural sweeteners. You can even walk along the beach right from the town!”
These ingredients are not only healthy, but they’re also gluten- For Tamani, Levuka represents a slower, simpler pace of life
free, dairy-free, and perfect for people with various dietary that’s hard to find elsewhere. “Time seems to slow down here.
needs.” People leave feeling like they’ve been here for days, even if
While the modern world may demand convenience, Tamani they’ve only stayed for one or two,” she explains. “And that’s the
explains that her guests often find themselves unwinding in an magic of Levuka. It’s not about filling your time with activities, but
increasingly rare way. “It’s amazing to see families spend time about really experiencing life.”
together here, with parents and children talking over a meal or
just sitting on the veranda and enjoying the view. It’s such a A community of hospitality
relaxed pace of life, and people seem to reconnect with each As the Levuka Tourism Association Secretary, Tamani works
other and nature when they stay here.” closely with other local businesses to improve the tourism
Tamani has a deep passion for painting. All the paintings experience.
displayed in the house are created by her. They include portraits “We’re all in this together. Levuka is a small, tight-knit
of famous kai Levuka, and guests- including a portrait of me community, and there’s no sense of cutthroat competition. We
after my visit! work together to make sure every guest has a great experience,”
Tamani’s son, Dominic, offers guests a chance to explore the she says.
area further. “He’s very knowledgeable and gives fantastic tours While Levuka faces challenges, Tamani is optimistic about the
around the town, villages, and even takes guests snorkelling or future. “One thing we’d love to see is the return of regular flights
on mountain hikes,” she says. “Dominic is fluent in both English to Levuka. That would make a huge difference for tourism, and
and Fijian, and his tours are a real highlight for those looking to for residents who need quick access to the mainland.”
connect more deeply with Levuka.” Whether you’re drawn by the history, the food, or the stunning
Like any business owner, Tamani faced challenges when location, there’s no shortage of reasons to stay.
opening the BnB. “The property was run down when we took it “People come here from all over the world, but once they’re
over. The gardens were neglected, and the house itself needed here, they feel like they’re part of our community,” Tamani
a lot of work. But the history and potential were so strong that we concludes. “And that’s what makes it so special. You’re not just
decided to go for it,” she recalls. visiting a place; you’re becoming a part of it.”
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