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time using Google Maps on my smartphone, I thought of her policing her decisions? I wish I knew more about her life and
again while directing a taxi driver in Kigali, Rwanda. I was about could have known her better.
to attend the launch of a remarkable collection of stories about I often wonder if I’m romanticising her legacy. Aside from
girls’ resistance across the globe, for which I curated a section a cousin or two in my generation, I have no other reference
from the Pacific. An hour later, I met the famous Malala, the points for feminism in our family, and she stands as the closest
keynote speaker at the event, on my birthday—my big 4-0. elder who embodied freedom. I sometimes question whether
Unlike Sarava-Nani, I am not a fearless traveler. I research, I’m embellishing her story. Yet, I know that even today, a 70-
plan, and worry. I make arrangements and stress about finding plus, paan-chewing, suki-smoking, widowed Indo-Fijian Muslim
safe accommodation and travel routes for women. I pack an great-grandmother traveling unaccompanied throughout Fiji
extra packet of Panadol, make photocopies of my passport, would likely be frowned upon.
print out maps in case my phone fails, carry extra cash for when History often paints our ancestors, especially women, as
cards don’t work, and email my family my itinerary so they can one-dimensional—pious and dutiful pillars of society. But I am
track me if needed. I arrive early for flights and, most importantly, grateful to have witnessed that my great-grandmother contained
pack a book (or two) in case my Kindle dies. This is my way of multitudes—and she lived, oh so freely!
traveling, and it helps me feel at ease in unfamiliar environments,
especially as a woman. Shazia Usman is a Fijian feminist activist and writer. Her first children’s book
From what I’ve learned from my father and other family Kaluti, a story of a 10-year-old girl facing colourism, was released in August
members, Sarava-Nani was quite a force to be reckoned 2019. For this, she was nominated as one of the International Women’s
with. Married twice and the mother of three daughters (my Development Agency’s ‘6 must-read women writers from Asia and the Pacific’.
grandmother being the eldest), she was a woman of her own She currently works as a Communications and Media Specialist for UN
mind. My father recalls her confidently donning her husband’s Women Pacific’s Ending Violence Against Women and Girls programme, and
pants to help cut cane, unfazed by what others might think. is Asia Foundation’s 2023 Development Fellow.
In many ways, she was far more independent than my own
grandmother, who lived a more traditional life. Was this freedom Views expressed are her own.
a result of her coming from a less traditional, less religious time?
Or was it because she was widowed early, free from anyone shaziausman.com

Local knowledge: Wainadoi Waterfall

The Wainadoi Waterfall is a beautiful
and accessible natural attraction located in
Nabukavesi, approximately 33km from Lami
Town. It’s a popular spot for both locals and visitors
seeking a refreshing swim or a peaceful retreat to
nature, and offers excellent photo opportunities.
To get to the waterfall, you need to walk about 30
to 40 minutes from the nearest road access point,
the Wainadoi main road junction. The terrain can
be uneven, so sturdy footwear is recommended.
An entry fee of FJ$5 per person is typically
requested, while local residents are charged FJ$5
per vehicle. This small fee helps support the local
community and maintain the site, and is paid
directly to a community member stationed at the
picnic area entrance.
While a guide is not necessary, locals are
friendly and happy to offer directions if needed.
The walking tracks are clear and lead directly to
the waterfall, so navigating the route should be
straightforward.
What to bring: Plenty of drinking water, food
and snacks (vendors are only located at the main
road). Don’t forget to carry your rubbish with you
and help keep the area clean.

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