Page 41 - Fiji Traveller 2023 Issue 5

By Kalinga Seneviratne creeks with crystal clear waters, tempting you to take a dip and
relieve the humidity.
I arrived in Samoa for a recent long weekend not knowing On Saturday morning, I was able to get a taste of Apia's city life.
what to expect. For a start, my flight from Nadi touched down at The city’s famous colourful buses were plying the streets. Fitted
1:00am at Faleolo International Airport. I was surprised to see from used truck chassis imported from overseas and adorned
the immigration officers and other airport staff looking fresh and with creative custom paintings, the buses create an attractive
the taxi stand outside was also a hive of activity – my fear of sight on Upolu roads, and the central bus terminal must be one
having to wait until day break to find a taxi to take me to the hotel of the most colourful in the world.
30km away was unfounded. In fact, many international flights Next door is the fish market, where fishers bring their catch
are scheduled to arrive in the wee hours of the morning, so the each morning. The fish on display are as colourful as the buses
very early morning bustle is normal. next door, but you need to be up early to see this sight.
Geographically and culturally, this nation of just over 205,500 Apia’s famous Maketi Fou is primarily a produce market—
people is at the heart of Polynesia. It consists of two main with lots of yams, bananas and coconuts—almost anything was
islands, Upolu and Savai’i. It has an ancient history, as Lapita up for sale there—from firewood to colourful Pacific shirts and
people—believed to have originated in northern Philippines— sulus (sarongs). This is the place to buy your souvenirs and local
settled here about 3500 years ago. The English missionaries produce.
who arrived in the islands in the 1830s have ensured that almost Most Samoans have lived in coastal villages since the
all Samoans converted to their faith, and today, 97% of Samoans country was first settled, and a drive along the coastal road was
are Christians. scenic. Many small hotels line the highway, offering inexpensive
Something that immediately struck me was the sheer number accommodation or fales, which are simple wall-less or thatched
of churches—from the grand Immaculate Conception Cathedral coconut leaf-walled wooden huts with mattresses on the ground
—with its ornate timber crafted ceilings, the dazzling stain- and shared washrooms.
glassed windows and illustrated dome, to smaller cathedrals Taufua Beach Fales near Lalomanu had a more upmarket
and churches across the island. Anywhere there is a community, version, with fales with wooden walls and doors and attached
there is a church. washrooms for a little over US$100 a night. Perched on a
As I was in Samoa for only four days, I decided to stick to beautiful shallow bay with vivid blue water, I was tempted to book
Upolu Island. The capital, Apia, is the country's only city, as well in for the night, but I wanted to see more of the coastline and
as the main port and centre for services and trade; it contains decided to drive on.
approximately one-fifth of Samoa's population. However, the I almost regretted that decision because the hotels, fales and
only beach is at the Taumeasina Island Resort. So I decided to villas that dotted the coastline past Lalomanu were all booked out
rent a car for three days, which is not costly (about US$70 a day for the weekend with tourists from New Zealand and Australia.
plus petrol), and explore further afield. Two hours further along the coast, I found a room at a luxury
The roads across Upolu are often bumpy two-lane highways hotel by the sea. The last room available at ‘Return to Paradise’
with a speed limit of 55km/h, but most drive at about 40km/h was about US$300 a night. The hotel offered a buffet and an
anyway. The coastal roads are tar-sealed and because of the evening cultural show performed by the Maeve Band, an all-
island’s mountainous terrain, quite scenic. However the roads male group whose members were gardeners at the resort before
are not well sign-posted, and on the first day, missing a turn the pandemic, but during the lockdown pivoted to become
towards the coastal road, I veered into the mountainous interior performers, singing traditional Samoan songs—which had a
of the country where you experience a few potholes and dirt touch of church choir singing—and many fast-moving gyrating
roads, but good green mountain terrain and valleys with very dances to traditional drum beats.
few communities. Samoa is a safe destination, with very friendly people still
There were many waterfalls on the way. One of the most steeped in tradition, and an easy trip from Nadi.
scenic is Papapapaitai Falls, just 30 minutes’ drive from Apia. It
can be viewed from a lookout on the main highway to the south Getting there: Fiji Airways has frequent flights to Samoa. Visit
coast. Papapapaitai cascades into a green gorge and is perhaps fijiairways.com for more information.
the most photographed site in Samoa. There are also many

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