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can get from the manicured tourist hotspots of Fiji. Unlike the
popular beaches to the west of the country, the pristine sands
here bear no impression of human footprints — save us three,
there isn’t another traveller around. A thick veil of primal greenery
envelopes us on three sides, while a placid ocean engages our
field of vision out front, its lapis-hued water reflecting the sky like
a giant mirror all the way to the horizon.
About seven kilometres out on these waters is Moon Reef,
aptly named due to its distinct crescent shape. Owing to its
shallow depth and a single guarded entrance into its inner lagoon,
the reef has historically provided shelter to a local population of
spinner dolphins, who swim into its recess every morning and
spend the whole day resting in the shallows, before leaving to
feed in the open ocean after sundown. Village residents along
the coast have traditionally treated the dolphins with utmost
care and respect, and some believe them to be guardian spirits
leading departed human souls into the afterlife. Needless to say,
the dolphins feel fully protected in these waters, and the absence
of hunting or poaching has resulted in the flourishing of their
population over the years.
Tourist infrastructure in Silana is conspicuous by its absence.
The only place equipped to handle visitors is a modest
guesthouse run by the village community, which also serves as
the launchpad for the dolphin safari. Soon after we reach the
premises of the establishment, we are met by Jay, one of the
guesthouse proprietors who also doubles as the chief safari
guide. After quickly digging into a refreshing platter of fresh local
avocados and bananas, Jay leads us to the motorboat. Without
wasting any time, we pull away from the shore, and head out to
sea in search of dolphins.
Twenty minutes later, we reach the edge of Moon Reef. And
no sooner than we turn into the lagoon, an oceanic spectacle
begins to unfold before our eyes. Out of almost nowhere, a pod
Photos: Tom Vierus/Pacific Media House

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