By Ema Ganivatu
Nestled in the heart of Levuka, Fiji’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, Alice Tamani’s Bed and Breakfast, ‘The Lookout’, has become more than just a business – it is a chance to preserve a cherished piece of Fiji’s colonial history.
“This house is so much more than just a place to stay,” she tells Fiji Traveller. “It was given to the town by its previous owner, Duncan, who loved Levuka so much that he bequeathed it to the town’s historical society when he passed away. And under the terms of our lease, we’ve committed to retaining the history of this place.”
The house, which was built in 1915, was once home to the Sword family, whose legacy is still felt in the town today. “We’ve kept so much of the history alive,” Tamani continues. “From Duncan’s personal photographs of his travels in the South Pacific to artifacts belonging to the Sword family, including their mementos and belongings, it’s truly a time capsule of the past.”
“People come for the history, for the view, for the peaceful atmosphere, but it’s the food that keeps them coming back,” Tamani says with a smile. “I love cooking with Fijian ingredients, things like cassava flour, breadfruit flour, and natural sweeteners. These ingredients are not only healthy, but they’re also gluten
free, dairy-free, and perfect for people with various dietary needs.”
While the modern world may demand convenience, Tamani explains that her guests often find themselves unwinding in an increasingly rare way. “It’s amazing to see families spend time together here, with parents and children talking over a meal or just sitting on the veranda and enjoying the view. It’s such a
relaxed pace of life, and people seem to reconnect with each other and nature when they stay here.”
Tamani has a deep passion for painting. All the paintings displayed in the house are created by her. They include portraits of famous kai Levuka, and guests- including a portrait of me after my visit!
Tamani’s son, Dominic, offers guests a chance to explore the area further. “He’s very knowledgeable and gives fantastic tours around the town, villages, and even takes guests snorkelling or on mountain hikes,” she says. “Dominic is fluent in both English and Fijian, and his tours are a real highlight for those looking to connect more deeply with Levuka.”
Like any business owner, Tamani faced challenges when opening the BnB. “The property was run down when we took it over. The gardens were neglected, and the house itself needed a lot of work. But the history and potential were so strong that we decided to go for it,” she recalls.
Another challenge was the location. Situated off Levuka’s main street, Alice initially worried guests would shy away from the uphill walk. Approaching by foot, visitors must walk up Levuka’s famous 99 steps. However, she found that the charm of the house and the personal touch of her hospitality turned
the location into a selling point.
“It became a destination. People enjoy the journey up here and the experience of staying in such
a beautiful, historic home,” she says. Another reward is the expansive views once you get to the home.
“Living on an island means that everything is more expensive,” Tamani adds. “From furniture to appliances to foodstuffs, freight costs can be high, and there’s a limited variety. But we made a conscious decision to support local businesses whenever possible. It’s a bit more expensive, but it’s also rewarding to keep
money within the local economy.”
While Levuka’s rich history draws visitors, Alice points out that there’s much more to the town and its surroundings than meets the eye. “Many people think Levuka is just a ghost town full of old
buildings,” Tamani says. “But for those who really explore, there is so much more. The natural beauty here is breathtaking. There are hikes, waterfalls, snorkelling, and local villages to explore.
You can even walk along the beach right from the town!” For Tamani, Levuka represents a slower, simpler pace of life that’s hard to find elsewhere. “Time seems to slow down here.
People leave feeling like they’ve been here for days, even if they’ve only stayed for one or two,” she explains. “And that’s the magic of Levuka. It’s not about filling your time with activities, but about really experiencing life.”
A community of hospitality
As the Levuka Tourism Association Secretary, Tamani works closely with other local businesses to improve the tourism experience.
“We’re all in this together. Levuka is a small, tight-knit community, and there’s no sense of cutthroat competition. We work together to make sure every guest has a great experience,” she says.
While Levuka faces challenges, Tamani is optimistic about the future. “One thing we’d love to see is the return of regular flights to Levuka. That would make a huge difference for tourism, and for residents who need quick access to the mainland.”
Whether you’re drawn by the history, the food, or the stunning location, there’s no shortage of reasons to stay. “People come here from all over the world, but once they’re here, they feel like they’re part of our community,” Tamani concludes. “And that’s what makes it so special. You’re not just visiting a place; you’re becoming a part of it.”
