By Sera Tikotikovatu-Sefeti
Traditional Fijian motifs and designs have long inspired local fabric and clothing designers, but few are working with these designs with as much elegance as Su Samuels of LavaLani Designs.
Masi (tapa) designs are an important cultural form of expression, holding significant meanings that can be read and understood as stories.
At LavaLani, those designs are matched with modern fabrications and shapes.
Label founder and designer, Susana ‘Su’ Samuels started sewing when looking for an alternative to the traditional sulu jaba (long skirt with top). She designed her own dress and took it to a tailor. Unhappy with the way it turned out, Samuels learnt to sew herself.
“Learning fashion design and sewing turned from being a hobby to a passion,” she relates.
“I take colour inspiration and motif shapes and sizes from masi prints and set them up into an idea that I have been thinking of. This year, [that idea was] how crochet repeats the same pattern, to create an even more beautiful design or pattern. So, I took that and placed the motifs, mimicking how crochet patterns are placed.”
Samuels hopes that those who wear her designs—including her statement gowns—will feel beautiful and empowered.
The designer herself prefers her work to make the big statement.
“I don’t like being the centre of attention; I prefer to work in the background and let my design pieces speak for themselves,” she says. And they do, with her garments worn by politicians, pageant queens, at weddings, and at Suva’s most glamorous events. They’re also in demand with the Fijian diaspora.
Fiji’s former Minister for Women, Lynda Tabuya, is a loyal client, supporter of local designers and fashion ambassador, and has worn the designer’s clothes at official engagements from Rwanda to New York.
“Our customers are mainly brides, since we specialise in masi bridal, but we also cater for special events,” Samuels says. “We use our designs to make men’s shirts and suits, custom-made gowns, and we have just recently created ready-to-wear clothes that are retailed by Fiji Baby Boutique.”
LavaLani’ is named after her two daughters – one, a Fiji Fashion Week runway model and the other, an aspiring fashion designer following in her mother’s footsteps. Samuels’ fascination with traditional prints began early in her life, as her grandmother worked with different Fijian patterns.
“Our cultural prints have backstories; every village or community has prints they are very proud of. The detailed Fijian designs have always captured my attention.”
She explains that navigating the use of traditional motifs requires sensitivity and respect for cultural protocols.
It can be tricky for designers who just want to let their creativity flow.
“I was advised that it was always best to create your own motifs and prints, so I have started thinking and creating my own,” Samuels reflects.
Her vision goes beyond aesthetics; she aims to educate people about the significance of the motifs she uses. “All the prints and motifs we release will have full stories behind them, so Fijians everywhere can relate to them and understand their meanings.”
This stems from her own experiences—”I know what it’s like not to know, but people expect you to know”— and a desire to reconnect younger Fijians with their cultural heritage.
Samuels used to model for veteran designer, mentor, educator, and consultant, Rosie Semisi-Emberson, who says the young designer has been innovative in navigating the complexities of using traditional prints.
“I have seen her grow her passion from strength to strength whilst trying to raise her young family, and with a supportive husband, she’s become one of Fiji’s top designers,” Semisi Emberson says.
Conquering the Fiji Fashion Week catwalk
Samuels credits Fiji Fashion Week for providing a platform to promote local talent. “I’m grateful to [founder] Ellen Whippy Knight for her support of local designers and for pushing our brands in various spaces.
“Fiji Fashion Week has really helped the industry to grow and create a platform for designers like me to build our brand, gain exposure, and ensure our business is sustainable.”
This year’s Fiji Fashion Week theme was a celebration of the natural beauty of Fiji, which nicely aligned with Samuels’ desire to promote Fiji to the world. She collaborated with Australia based Fijian Fancynators designer, Sima Mala, whose gorgeous and dramatic floral fascinators complimented the sleek LavaLani silhouettes.
Samuels was also one of two designers to represent Fiji at the 13th Festival of Pacific Arts and Culture in Hawaii this year.
And she was recently honoured at the National Fashion Awards 2024, where she won the award for ‘Innovative Textile and Print’ and shared the title of Best Womenswear Designer with Zulkfikar Ali.
But ultimately, the response of her clients is her most important measure of success.
“Designing custom-made outfits for my customers is special to me. Their stories, journeys, and desired designs are meaningful to me. From the design concept to the finished product, every detail is important. Seeing tears of joy and happiness on our customers’ faces makes it all worthwhile,” Samuels says.
